Closing the Loop in Fashion: Life Cycle Assessment of Second-Hand Clothes and the Influence of Consumer Behaviour

Abstract

This study investigates the environmental impacts of second-hand clothing compared to brand-new clothing, integrating consumer behaviour into the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of t-shirt and trousers. Drawing on survey data from Dutch consumers, the research investigates rebound effects, garment lifespans, displacement rates, and consumer habits during the use phase. A circular economy framework for the comprehensive mapping of the use phase was used to inform the LCA. LCA results show that second-hand clothes generally have lower impacts than brand-new clothes due to the avoided production impacts. However, these benefits depend on factors such as use frequency and the displacement rate. Sensitivity analyses revealed that environmental impacts of second-hand clothes are increase under lower displacement rates or infrequent use and are influenced by several factors including the functional unit definition. This study highlights the need for behaviourally grounded, context-specific modelling to ensure a fair environmental assessment of clothing reuse.